Most travelers think of thrill-seeking adventure when they think of the
state of San Luis Potosi, from the plunging Huastecas waterfalls and the
surrealist Las Pozas sculpture gardens to the enchanting, time-warped
streets of Real de Catorce, the second village in Mexico to earn the
Pueblo Magico distinction. These attractions are spectacular and worth
the trip to the lush, rainforested eastern half of San Luis Potosi. But I
argue that its namesake high desert capital city, on the western slopes of the Sierra Madre Orientales mountains, is part of what makes the state
one of the most well-rounded in Mexico, as it offers a deep immersion into
art, history and culture.
The Centro Historico of San Luis Potosi is a visual stunner and a living time machine transporting visitors across its 400-year history. The district is laid out like colorful canyons of historical buildings splashed in creamy reds, blues and ochre. Wrought-iron balconies overlook cobblestone streets, which lead to leafy parks peppered with gurgling fountains. From the rooftops, you can see the towers of centuries-old cathedrals scattered throughout the city.
Muchos museums
I'm always amazed by the rich and fascinating museums I've encountered in Mexico, from the Museo Soumaya in Mexico City to the Museum of Death in Aguascalientes. San Luis Potosi is no exception. A favorite here is the Centro de las Artes de San Luis Potosi Centenario, a former penitentiary that has been turned into a vibrant arts center. The cells within the stony prison walls have been transformed into capsule art galleries. Five cell blocks are now home to various forms of art, from galleries to a dance studio and a music center. Between the wings are lush gardens and water features.
The Museo Nacional de la Mascara is dedicated to Mexico's masked dances and pre-Columbian heritage. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
Part of the penitentiary complex houses the Museo Leonora Carrington, the first museum dedicated to the iconic surrealist artist. One of the leading figures of the surrealist movement in Mexico, Carrington is known for her larger-than-life sculptures, etchings, jewelry and drawings. The museum has seven of her large-scale sculptures placed throughout its courtyards.
San Luis Potosi is also home to the Museo Nacional de la Mascara, or the National Museum of Masks, a compelling collection of face coverings from across Mexico and worldwide. Visitors wander through the rooms of a gorgeous early 20th-century mansion, each housing masks that tell stories of cultural traditions, rituals and artistic expression.
Train lovers can enjoy the Museo del Ferrocarril in the 1936 art deco old railway terminal. The museum features photographs, videos and old passenger cars. Then there is the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de San Luis Potosi, home to contemporary art exhibits, and the Museo Federico Silva, a sculpture museum created by the Mexican artist Federico Silva that is housed in a 17th-century building once a hospital for the city.
Architectural wonders
The Jardin de San Francisco, with its church and fountain, is just one of many public squares in San Luis Potosí. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
San Luis Potosi's Centro Historico is a visual feast, with colorful buildings and fountain-filled plazas, grand cathedrals and beautifully preserved cobblestone streets. It's a dizzying display of ornate carvings and colors, from the San Luis Potosi Cathedral, with its baroque facade and twin towers, to the Capilla de Aranzazu, which pops with a brilliant canary-yellow facade and a striking tile-covered dome. The Teatro de la Paz is an elegant neoclassical theater across from the aforementioned National Museum of Masks. And not to be missed is the Edificio Ipina, an art deco masterpiece.
Brewpubs and restaurants
San Luis Potosi is also making a name for itself in the culinary world. The legendary michelada -- a drink concocted of beer, lime juice and an assortment of sauces, spices and chili peppers -- was born here, after all. But beer creativity in San Luis Potosi doesn't end there. The city's craft breweries are growing steadily, offering locally inspired artisanal brews. Callejon 7B, for example, named for the seven original barrios that made up San Luis Potosi, is churning out ambers, lagers and IPAs. Their downtown brewpub is a fun spot for live music, food and in-depth conversations with brewmasters about the beer-making process.
Speaking of food, Chau Resto is a locally owned, back-to-basics Mexican kitchen serving Potosino-style cuisine with a contemporary twist. Snack on beetroot carpaccio or fresh nopales with grilled panela cheese; huitlacoche lasagna; and tacos gobernador. Visitors to San Luis Potosi can pick up a Centro Historico culinary passport, which has promotions and deals at many of the gourmet restaurants in the historical district. Go to Instagram @pasaportebuencomer to learn more.
Where to stay
Check your clients into the City Centro by Marriott San Luis Potosi. The property has been beautifully remodeled and is one of the oldest hotels in the city. Original features include the grand staircase in the former lobby (the new lobby lives in what was originally a cantina). Rooms are comfortable with cozy beds and flat-screen televisions, with historical touches from wrought-iron balconies to glass-paned French doors. A lovely rooftop pool area has beautiful views overlooking the Templo de Nuestra Senora del Carmen cathedral, and the hotel is within walking distance of all of the attractions, parks and restaurants of downtown San Luis Potosi.